Frequently-Asked Questions for Xtra-Dimensions pieces
Q How can I keep the piece clean?
A Dust can be removed with a feather duster, by blowing with a vacuum cleaner or by gentle vacuuming. Be careful not to snag the mounted components, or to get water on them. Fingerprints on the acrylic edge can be cleaned with microfiber cloth or even a paper towel moistened with Windex or a water-based plastic cleaner – don’t use a solvent!
Q What do I do if one of the components comes loose?
A It can be glued back on using a general household glue – preferred is GE silicone glue. Put a dab on the back of the loose piece, let the glue set up for a minute, then stick the piece back on its post, oriented relative to the image.
Q What is the piece made of?
A The segments of a photographic print are adhered to flattened metal sheets derived from aluminum cans, and these components are glued to posts of different heights above a sheet of acrylic plastic or metal print.
Q Why are flattened aluminum cans used to support the individual components?
A Because the metal from soda and beer cans has the right thickness to be cut easily but enough stiffness to hold the desired shape. This metal is not available in big sheets (cans are not assembled from metal sheet, but rather punched out of a disc).
Q Is this just a photograph that has been cut up and reassembled like a jigsaw puzzle?
A No. Because the individual components overlap, a separate pattern and print has to be made for each layer.
Q Are there a lot of steps in the process?
A Yes!
The Cans
1) Go to the local recycle center and dig through the bins of beer and soda cans to find some that aren’t hopelessly crushed or dented. Friends are helpful, too!
2) When home, for each can cut off the top, cut down the side and cut off the bottom, then wash it out – thoroughly!
3) When dry, straighten the metal sheet (by pulling it over the edge of a table).
4) Then give each sheet a final wash.
The Print
5) Work out the pattern on the computer and create the digital files for the photo printer for each layer. A location code for each component has to be included to indicate where it goes!
6) Apply a double-sided adhesive layer to the back of the prints.
7) Cut out each component, with its code, and stick it to a flattened metal sheet.
8) Write the location code on the back of the sheet.
The Shaping
9) Cut the component to shape, using left-handed scissors when the image is on the right of the blade and right-handed scissors when it’s to the left.
10) Put the appropriate 3-dimensional shape into the component, for example by scoring the back or curling the metal over an edge.
11) Roughen the mount location on the back with sandpaper so the glue will stick better.
The Acrylic Support
12) Print out a template that shows the pattern of the components, where the mounts are to be located, and where the support frame will go, if needed (for example if the piece is large or will be curved).
13) Tape the template to the back of the acrylic sheet and assemble the supporting frame and other hardware.
14) Before final assembly, build a case for the piece so that it can be carried around safely.
15) Following the pattern of the template, glue acrylic posts of different heights to the appropriate positions for each of the layers.
The Final Assembly
16) Starting with the lowest layer, glue the individual components to the supports, lining them up with the template behind and with the layers below, to create the complete image.
17) The most fun part: turn the completed piece over and remove the template to reveal the pattern of cans on the back side.